A few months ago I was very generously gifted not one but two Lutterloh pattern books from 1940 and 1941. That very same week on eBay I bid on a Summer 1949 supplement being sold from France. Amazingly I won it for not too much.

1. Lutterloh Patterns Download

So completely and utterly spoiled for choice and unable to decide which design to start with I photocopied a number of my favourites and randomly drew this one to be my first Lutterloh make. That fine cotton hummingbird fabric I posted about back in April was used for it – and going by my self-imposed ”one out-one in” stash rule I can now buy a new fabric 😉I resisted the impulse to edit my pics to make my waist look as small as the illustration or to make the illustration look as realistic as me.So without more ado here is my Lutterloh 1949 make:Lutterloh was started in Germany, 1935, and is still going strong today. It’s similar-ish contemporaries were a French system called Eclair Coupe Paris and The Haslam system which I think was American.

This is a of the Man From Lutterloh demonstrating with a simple waistcoat how it all works (14 minutes long if you have the patience).So how did my try at Lutterloh go? Well, drawing the pattern out was dead easy like the advertising says.

Butand this is a big, HUGE ‘but’: there are no seam allowances included on the patterns, no real indication of grain placement, and no facings or lining pieces. Also there are absolutely no sewing instructions or finishing suggestions, no hints of what to interface, line or even where to put openings to get the garment on and off. So, basically, if you don’t know how to work out all of that or really don’t relish the challenge of learning and experimenting I wouldn’t recommend rushing off to try it out. There are some lovely styles from the French system sold singly on Etsy by Mrs.Depew Vintage which could be an inexpensive way to experiment if you are so inclined.

Someone else on eBay in the USA sells whole collections of vintage Eclair-Coupe Paris on Cds at a (in my opinion) very reasonable price. If it does appeal I recommend you consider arming yourself with a good sewing and perhaps a fitting book as well.How accurate was the pattern once drawn out? Actually not too bad at all.

The sleeves needed no alterations other than shortening to suit me and the skirt just a little adjusting to hang well. I did add a good amount more fullness into it than the pattern had though. The bodice needed the most alteration as the shoulder height and pitch were really wrong on me, the armhole needed moving in an inch and the vertical under-bust dart was in a bad place so I finally just took one of my own basic bodice blocks and made a similar pattern with it, knowing then that all elements would fit me. I’m not at all sure if the bodice problems were due to me being a bit careless with how I marked my initial pattern points or what. I’ll have a better idea when I tackle a second style.I made a muslin mock up first which as well as highlighting fit issues was a huge help in deciding how to finish edges and where to locate the zip. I opted for one in the left side seam instead of a centre back one, and made the left side under-wrap pass through a slot formed by leaving a part of the right dart openrather than the usual side seam opening, which I thought was kinda clever pat on back.

The neck edges are finished with a narrow self bias binding. The three extended sleeve darts definitely needed some support so some very stiff Vilene cut in crescents shapes then sewed into the armholes did the trick. The belt ends are just closed in the back with hooks and bars.I’ve read on the internet that while Lutterloh Co. Is still a very active company in producing contemporary styles they aren’t interested in reproducing the vintage books.

I also have gleaned that the company is fairly hot on copy write infringements- it seems ok for people to post pictures of the styles but absolutely not of the actual patterns. Google ‘Lutterloh patterns’ for all kinds of further info.Anyway it’s an interesting pattern system, a fab way to access unusual vintage patterns from 1935 onwards and like I said (while gazing at my badly organised shoeboxes bursting with vintage pattern envelopes) until you draw them out on paper they take up virtually no space!Ah, and what about the fab chunky platform shoes I’m sporting in the pics you ask?Ok you didn’t but I’m telling anyway- they’re from Audley, London, bought as a ‘my foot is better’ celebration.

After my stupid, stupid foot breaking accident of last September (and I never wore those stupid wide legged trousers again!) I lived in sensible, supportive, lace-up walking shoes for 8 whole months. Nice with trousers but dreadful with dresses. I’m also still doing foot strengthening exercises and lots of foot massage and can see a pair of ‘Joan’ shoes from in my future to go with my next up Lutterloh make planned in brown wool crepe with brown velvet applique leaves:Next day edit: The urge to do some digital surgery became too great this morning so here is me as a Lutterloh Lady 🙂 Two Little Ladies From LutterlohFrank Lutterloh, the current head of the company has just started a as of Sept. 2013 featuring both contemporary and vintage clothing made with the Lutterloh system. Should be interesting. Hi Jenna, it is easy enough but definitely start with something simple so you don’t just get discouraged from the starting gate like a skirt or easy blouse.

And be prepared to make muslins to check fit and work out how best to sew the garment up. I think for all but fairly experienced sewers the lack of sewing instructions can be the biggest stumbling block but if you already know the basic order most things need to be assembled in, and are happy to draft your own facings and linings it’s just diving in and getting the hang of it. Since making that first dress mainly I’ve ended up looking at the mini patterns more as a reference to the shape of pieces while drafting from my own blocks or making alterations to vintage tissue patterns that are already close in style. Just give it a go and see what you think!. Hi Kathy!The dress pulls on over my head. Having both the side opening and the release from the wrap being untied there is a good amount of room to do this.For a boat neck dress with a side opening you just need to make sure the boat neck is large enough for you to get your head through.

On average 23 inches is just enough though to not mess up hair/makeup a few more inches makes it easier.-OR-you could make a small bound or faced slash opening at the centre back neck if you need a few inches more to get the opening over your head and hair comfortably. I too have the 1941 Lutterloh digital format book but haven’t been brave enough to make anything from it yet. I also managed to get hold of a Haslam book this summer which I date at circ 1932-1936 judging by the style of 30’s attire in there 🙂 Very proud to say as well that Miss Haslam was a fellow Lancastrian from sunny Lancashire in NW England (though Bolton where she came from is now in Greater Manchester). Thanks for the Lutterloh blog link as will definitely be following those with interest x. All the diy pattern methods from ‘back then’ are so interesting aren’t they? In a way I think those systems had more to offer the home sewer in terms of variety of styles and as a tidy delivery system too.

I spent the other weekend researching scale-upable patterns. The general consensus concerning fit seems to be that (and as most modern patterns still are) the small scale pattern drawn up best fit figures with certain height/weight proportions.

But perhaps over all the home seamstress of yesteryear was more prepared to and experienced in fitting herself. Lol, just things I’ve been thinking about recently!But do take the Lutterloh plunge, it is quite fun and bound to stretch your skills in a good way. That 1949 dress came out absolutely beautiful! There is nothing wrong with your waist! It’s just that you have a normal waist while the model’s drawing has a very tiny waist. Plus I think people from the 1930’s – 1940’s were still pretty petite in stature– especially the women.

I have those patterns too and now that I have seen you make it I may give it a try. I’m having terrible fitting issues with Lutterloh due to my shape. I am shaped like a rectangle or a column with little to zero waist definition. Also I am plus sized so that adds to my being out of the Golden rule in sizing. I will keep working on the basic blouse so that I can make a better sloper. Thank you for all your inspiration!.

Late to the party Kathy, but I have similar issues with not being standard size, particularly in the full bust (6 inches larger than high bust). Then I am a bit over standard waist, bit less in hips. What works for me though is to move up and down on the measuring tape. Larger size at bust and waist, smaller at hip and smallest at shoulders (very, very in actual fact).

Think of it as an infinite multi-size pattern where you can move in and out to match your measurements. 🙂Now I know the sequence for me, I can use it for all the Lutterloh patterns It also means I don’t need to do most of the adjustments I have to make on presized patterns except for a (much) smaller full bust adj and a bodice length reduction. Got to love that!. I was running in my house to answer the door and wearing some very wide trousers- one foot got trapped in fabric and I went down like a chopped tree. It was a nasty break but almost as good as new now.

Lutterloh Patterns Download

For a shoe fan like me its been hard!Yes, I think using Lutterloh more as a guide is a good way to do it it doesn’t take much to throw an entire pattern out and make it a little wrong everywhere especially if one isn’t used to how a pattern piece ought to look. Still, interesting to try it.All the best to you 🙂.